neither panic nor any terror scream when the troops
of the hell take for assault, with twirls and scatterbrained movements,
the streets of the city. But these "evil princes" -of
swaying horns and hideous eyeteeth escaping of their mouths- do
not generate neither a tiny piece of fear nor a little dose of
terror... and it is for that reason that people applaud and encourage
them and in some cases, even want to join to the rhythmic pilgrimage
of the devils of Oruro.
advance to the compass of the music. There
are devils of brilliant clothes and coquettish "diablitas"
of shrunk skirts that sway the hips one and a thousand times,
as if they were trying to tempt to San Miguel archangel, who is
walking lost among many dancing demons that for those things of
the very old legends, will surrender homage to the miraculous
Virgin of El Socavón.
in Oruro, the folkloric capital city of Bolivia,
that surrenders in February to the frenzy of its singular carnival
that mixes the devotion for the Virgin of El Socavón -patron
saint that blesses the daily activities in the dark depths of
the mines- with diverse pagan expressions.
of Oruro is an endless rosary of dances
and faith. Thousands of faithful people carry out a journey through
the streets of the city -founded in 1606- before arriving at the
Sanctuary of El Socavón. Dances of remote origins like
the Diablada, the Morenada, the Tobas, the Llamerada and the Phujllay,
among other, are revived by the fifty folkloric groups that participate
in the party.
with its 3,706 m.a.s.l., it is not only the city of
the carnival. This corner of the highland -home of the miners
who worship the Virgin of El Socavón and El Tío
(The Uncle), the mythical absolute owner of the wealth of the
underground- offers a series of discreet charms that make it attractive
and welcoming, in spite of the freezing cold.